Cable Crossover
This project is by far, the most versatile piece of equipment that I have built. It is also the piece of DIY equipment that I use the most.
When I was filming the video, I only filmed a sample of the exercises that I do with this piece of equipment. The fact is the list of possibilities are endless. I am constantly discovering new ways to integrate new movements with this machine. I am also always thinking about ways to enhance the current design to make it even more versatile! DO you have any ideas? PLEASE share! I have a few ideas up my sleeve (Future Video!)
NOTE: In the video at the 5:46 mark, there is a TYPO. It says “Two 2 1/6” pieces of 2x4”, but should say “Two 2 1/16” pieces of 2x4.”
TOP BEAM LUMBER:
I was recently asked by a Channel Subscriber if they could use a 4x4 instead of a 2x4. The answer is “Yes” - FOR THE TOP BEAM.
For the Top Beam , a 4x4 is actually “better,” in that a 4x4 will bow a little less, and will require less work for you since you will not have to glue and lag-screw two boards together.
The video’s design utilized 2x4s only because I wanted to keep costs down. A 4x4 was more expensive than two 2x4s (and 3 lag screws), and that was the sole reason I went with two 2x4s for the Top Beam.
However, for the Top Beam’s two BRACKETS, I would STILL USE 2x4. If I these brackets were made out of 4x4, it would unnecessarily stick out “too far.” In fact, I would likely hit my head on it doing some exercises (e.g., when the beam is slid to the rear position and doing standing calf extensions and/or belt squats—as demonstrated at the end of my DIY Belt Squat Belt video).
TOP BEAM EYEBOLT DISTANCE:
In the video you may notice that there are more than three holes for the Eyebolts on the Top beam. When I first built this (about 18 months ago) I drilled the “extra” holes because I was unsure of the initial design and was worried that I would need it to be more adjustable, allowing for the pulleys to be moved inward/outward. So I drilled multiple holes, spaced 2” apart, on both sides.
However, I soon discovered that these holes were useless. First of all, for many exercises, moving the eyebolts inwards, increases slack in the cables, decreasing your range of motion. Secondly, if I moved the upper pulleys inward, the weights would swing into the rack - clang, clang, clang.
It turns out that the ideal distance for me (who is 6 ft tall), is exactly where we placed the beam’s furthest Eyebolt hole (22” from my rack’s edge —— These holes are on a beam extends 26” out from the edge, we drilled the furthest hole 4” from that edge - providing a distance of 22” from my rack’s edge).
U-BOLTED BOTTOM ANCHORS:
Due to the fact that my Power Rack is currently on carpet (horse stall flooring in my home gym is an upcoming project for me). the U-Bolts work great for me. The gap left underneath the Power Rack’s leg is unnoticeable because the rack sinks into my carpet. However, if your rack is on a harder surface, then you MAY want to seek an alternative solution. Alternative solutions could include:
Just live with it
Add Extra U-Bolts to “Level” the Rack’s legs
Add Shims (e.g., a scrap piece of wood, scrap strip of carpet, etc.) to be wedged underneath to “Level” the Rack’s legs
RATCHET STRAPS (As pictured tin the video). I tested this, and it worked great. They are a cheap and effective alternative. When used properly, they are a very sturdy anchor for your lower pulleys. Here are a few recommendations if you choose to pursue this route:
Ratchet with the straps traversing underneath the rack’s leg for best stability (as pictured)
End with the ratchet on the rear of the rear post (as pictured)
End with the two “S” hooks connected together in the Center of the Rack’s Legs (as pictured)
To best secure the Pulley, Attach the Lower Pulleys' Spring Links to the “Circle” in the ratchet strap’s “S” hooks (as pictured)
As a matter of personal preference, buy Ratchet Straps that are the same color as your rack so that it looks “nicer.”
Soft Loop Tiedown straps: You will allow you to attach pulleys, but they will not be in a static position. Certain exercises will cause the straps to slide along the bottom crossmember. This may be permissible for some. Not permissible for others.
TIPPING/USING CENTER EYEBOLT:
My Rack is not bolted to the ground. The first time I went heavy on one side - guess what happened? The Rack tipped and the ceiling got a bruise! I learned my lesson.
If using two cable at once (the Left and the right - there is less of a problem since the rack will be balanced on both sides.
However, if heavy on one side and light on the other side, it will tip (if not bolted down). Therefore, When I want to go heavier with one “side,” I move the pulley to the center Eyebolt (where there is far more stability).
WEIGHT LIMITS:
This is NOT made of STEEL. Don't put 500 LBS on one side of this wooden Beam and expect nothing bad to happen. Just be smart and use caution. Pay attention to the advertised weight limits of all hardware (and the lumber).
KIDS/PETS:
Please DO NOT USE AROUND KIDS OR PETS. That is a disaster waiting to happen. This thing is essentially a kid/pet crushing machine. Further, when not in use, please remove cables/pulleys and put them away. Kids left unattended who want to “play” with the cables…. it's just a bad idea.
CABLE REPLACEMENT:
I have had cables fail on me. In the 18 months that I have been using this piece of equipment (and I use it 6 days per week on average), I have had cables fail and snap twice. In both cases, I noticed that the cable began to get dark gray INSIDE the vinyl coating before it failed. This, (I believe) is metal “dust" from the cable breaking down. When it turns dark gray, replace it BEFORE it fails.
Maybe I should use thicker cable? Perhaps. The reason why I use 1/8” is because at the beginning of COVID- I bought a ton of it. I had lots of other plans for other equipment, and wanted to bulk in bulk. Perhaps one day I will use thicker cable. But for now, 1/8” cable is working just fine for me.
PULLEYS
These are the standard Big-Box Hardware store swivel pulleys. In my opinion, they get a bad rap amongst some in the DIY fitness equipment community. Are there better pulleys out there? Yes. Feel free to buy them and use them instead. However, I think that the pulleys that I use are a pretty good value. As long as you keep these well-lubricated they work just fine.
Be sure you get SWIVEL pulleys. If your pulleys do not have a swivel you will limit the versatility of this piece of equipment.
THREADLOCKER
It is a good idea to use this wherever/whenever you can (all U-Bolts, eyebolts, and hell — even wire clamps). It can prevent equipment failure and therefore prevent injury.
PLATE PINS/HANDLES
In this Video I use items from other Videos I have created, namely the Plate Pin (AKA Loading Pin) and DIY Handles for Cable machines. If you need a plate pin or a handle - be sure to check out those projects as well.
REDUCING SWING
Check out this companion video to greatly reduce swing. In this video I offer multiple QUICK & SIMPLE HACKS for your Home Gym’s Cable Pulley System (whether it is a DIY or a “Store Bought” system) to greatly reduce SWING! This will prevent injuries and/or damage to your gym’s other fitness equipment, walls, and mirrors!!
SHOPPING LIST:
PRICES (Home Depot Prices as of February 2021):
The total is roughly $125, however, almost 25% of that cost is “Spring Links” alone. So if you can find a better deal on those, you could save a considerable amount of money!!!
If you Build this project and want to brag about it, please use the #DesignBuildLift hashtag so that I can feature your amazing creation on my social media to help inspire others!
