DIY Fitness Club

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Omega Arms

PJ

INTRO:

This is by far the most versatile piece of equipment that I have made to date. Omega Arms, which are primarily DIY ISO Arms - Lever Arms - Jammer Arms – can be configured to do MANY exercises, including (but not limited to):

  • Overhead Press

  • Standing Calf Raises

  • Bent Over Rows

  • Chest Supported Rows

  • Belt Squats

  • Bicep Curls

  • Shrugs

  • Seated Calf raises

  • Flat Bench Press

  • Incline Chest Press

  • Shoulder Press Variations

  • Pendulum Squat

  • Neutral Grip Pullups

  • Glute Ham Developer (GHD) - Sit Ups

  • Glute Ham Developer (GHD) - Russian Curls

  • Deadlifts

  • Inverted Leg press

  • Stationary Lunge

  • Leg press

  • Glute Kickbacks

  • Standing Chest press

  • Jammer Press

  • Tricep Pushdowns (Dip Machine)

  • Farmer’s Carry

  • Reverse Hyperextension

  • Leg Extensions

  • Seal Rows

  • Dips

  • Squats

  • Hip Thrusters

  • And MANY MORE

Here is episode 1, which provides an Overview of what the Omega Arms can do:

Here is episode 2, which provides the Step-By-Step DIY Tutorial steps to build the Omega Arms.

PARTS LIST:

OMEGA ARMS:

  • ONE Power Rack (See link here for my rack: https://amzn.to/3dUvUed)

  • TWO 4x4s (length is 6” plus length of your rack’s exterior edge to the other exterior edge)

  • TWELVE x ¾” Black Iron Floor Flanges

  • FOUR 6” Long ¾” Nipples

  • FOUR ¾” Nipple Caps (Galvanized)

  • TWO 6”-24” Long ¾” Nipples (Galvanized) for “Stopper Arms” (length depends on exercise being performed) – with 2 More ¾” Nipple caps or ¾” Nipple Tee Connectors

OLYMPIC PLATE ADAPTERS (Optional):

  • 1 ½” Schedule 40 PVC (Cut to Length of Nipple)

  • TWO  1” Schedule 40 PVC Caps

OMEGA HANDLES (Need 2 of them):

  • TWO 10” Long ¾” Nipples (Galvanized)

  • FOUR ¾” Nipple 90 Degree Elbows (Galvanized)

  • FOUR ¾” Nipples that are at least  6” Long (However, 8”, 10” or 12” is preferred for CERTAIN exercises) (Galvanized)

  • FOUR ¾” Nipple Caps (Galvanized)

  • Threadlocker

OMEGA BRACKETS

(My 2”x2” Rack has 1 1/16” diameter holes that are spaced 2” apart. If your rack is different, you may have to change the design of these brackets to accommodate your own unique needs - which may include not needing them at all)

  • ONE 60” Long ¾” Nipple (Galvanized to keep your hands clean)

  • TWO ¾” Nipple Caps (Galvanized to keep your hands clean)

  • TWO 4x4s (lengths are  7” each)

  • FOUR 6” ½” Nipples (Galvanized)

  • FOUR ½” Nipple Caps (Galvanized)

  • FOUR ½” Nipple Tee Connectors (or FOUR more Caps) (Galvanized)

TOOLS:

  • Miter Saw (Or Circular Saw)

  • Drill Press (or Hand drill)

  • 7/8” Spade Bit

  • 1 1/8” Spade Bit

  • Speed Square

  • T Square or chalk Line (For marking LENGTHWISE center line of 4x4)

  • Pipe Wrench

  • Drill

  • Drill Bits (Size)

  • Ratcheting PVC Cutter

MISC:

  • Paint

  • 12” or 18”, 24”, and 36” Long  ¾” Galvanized Nipples WITH Accompanying ¾” Nipple Caps will also be required for Many exercises

  • 3” Deck Screws (or at least 2.5” Long -3” Construction Screws)

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Step-By-Step “Build Out”

OMEGA ARMS:

Step 1: Determine Length & Cut.

Measure Rack and cut one 4x4 (distance from your rack’s front (or rear) exterior edge to the other exterior edge PLUS 6” (for a 3” overhang on both sides).

Step 2: Center the 4x4 on your rack.

I put my 4X4 on my safety bars and aligned the 3” Overhang marking with the exterior edge of my rack.

If these marks are aligned, then your 4x4 is centered.

Step 3: Trace your Rack’s “Hole Positions” – With the 4x4 Still centered (don’t bump it), trace the rack’s holes onto the 4x4.

Step 4: Measure & Mark middle the Widthwise and Lengthwise center lines.

Step 5: Place 3 x 45 LBS Plates on the 4x4.

The 1st plate should be placed where the Widthwise and Lengthwise center lines meet - dead center of your 4x4. Then use a spacer (I used a ½” Nipple as a spacer) next to the 1st plate. Then lay down your 2nd  45 LBS Plate – ensuring it is centered on the lengthwise center line. Again using a spacer,  and lay down your 3rd 45LBS Plate, and again ensure that – it is centered on the lengthwise center line.

Step 6: Trace inside the plate’s 2inch center circle for all 3 thee 45LBS plates.

You can now remove the 45 LBS plates.

Step 7: Mark the boundaries of each “45 LBS Plate Circles.

Scribe these boundaries on the Top of the 4x4 and on the side you will later be drilling through. These marking represent the areas which you will NOT be able to drill through – because we will later be adding floor flanges to the “45 LBS Plate Circles” and we need that real estate to run 3” screws through to connect the floors flanges to the 4x4.

Step 8: Determine the positions for drilling both “end Holes.”

By this I mean that you need to mark the boundaries of the circle that you made when you traced your Rack’s hole positions (in Step 3), and the find the intersection of the 4x4’s Lengthwise center line and the two lines that mark the boundaries of this circle. The bottom line is--- You need to drill in the CENTER (lengthwise) of the 4x4….not in the exact spot where you traced the hole position from your rack!

Step 9: Drill both “end holes.”

I used a 1 1/8” Spade bit. This provides a great fit for ¾” Nipples. Bear in mind, that ¾” nipples are not ¾” wide. ¾” nipples are closer to being 1” wide. The ¾” Nipple size refers (I believe) to the Interior of the nipple – not the diameter of the exterior of the nipple).  Also – my spade bit did not go all the way through the 4x4. Therefore, I drilled as far as I could, and then had to raise my drill press – and finish drilling with a second attempt. I had to do this for ALL holes I drilled with the drill press – and you will likely have to do the same (unless you are using another means (i.e.., hand drilling)). BEFORE proceeding to step 10: take this down to your power rack and ensure that it fits on your rack’s safety bars.

Step 10: Assemble First Omega handle.

This is the most critical portion of the project. In the video. If you mess this up – the holes you will be drilling form here on out will be off.

I used two 6” long ¾” nipples for making the handles “legs” (for lack of a better term), but these will be interchangeable. You could also use 8”, 10” 12” long ¾” nipples – but I would not go any shorter than 6” long since you need enough clearance between the 4x4 and the handle to get your hand in. Since they will be interchangeable – be sure to clean them and apply grease to the threads before putting the ¾” elbows onto the handle’s “legs.” After doing this – set them off to the side and grab a 10” long ¾” Nipple. Apply Thread locker. I put too much threadlocker on in the video - and I put it on too “far out” – in that  you only need to apply threadlocker to the portion of the threading that will go inside the ¾” elbow.

Once you assemble the handle together, make sure you hand tighten it (not so much that it is difficult, but just enough that it remains in a fixed position). Obviously, the looser it is the longer the handle will be, and the tighter it is, the short the handle will be.

Allow the threadlocker to dry for 24 hours before using.

Also – Use Galvanized Nipples. Using Black Iron nipples will be cheaper but your hands will be filthy after each use. You will thank me later.

Step 11: Use the Omega handle to determine the next hole positions.

Put one end of your handle ABOVE the Center of your first “End hole” (the ones you made in Step 8) – do not put the handle IN the hole – make sure it is centered ABOVE It – otherwise the positioning will be off.

Then trace the Handle’s “leg” onto the 4x4 ensuring that you center the handle’s “leg” on the Lengthwise center line of the 4x4. The circle you make will be the position of your next hole that you must drill. Next measure and mark the center of tis circle, and this is where you will place the tip of your Spade bit. And drill your next hole.

Repeat this process at the other end of the 4x4.

Step 12: Drill the next hole positions (the positions that you made in Step 11).

When done, use your handle to ensure that it fits easily when inserting/removing from these hole positions.

Step 13: Use the same handle to determine 1st Position of “Center Holes.”

By this I mean measure the length of your handle and then measure and mark off your 4x4’s Dead center point (where the 4x4’s widthwise and lengthwise center lines intersect). Then as – we did earlier, trace the position of your handle’s 1st “leg” (with in centered on the 4x4’s lengthwise center line). Then measure and mark the center of this circle.

Do NOT just center the handle and mark Both positions at the same time. If you do, you will likely be a little off – and it would really stink to screw this up at this point. Take it slow.

Step 14: Drill the 1st position of the “Center Holes.”

Step 15: Use the same handle to determine 2nd Position of “Center Holes.”

Step 16:  Drill the 2nd position of the “Center Holes.”

When done, use your handle to ensure that it fits easily when inserting/removing from these hole positions.

Step 17: Make a Second IDENTICAL LENGTH handle.

You are going to want both Omega Arms to be as identical as possible. The only way to do this, is to make two identical Handles – ones that can work interoperable with each Omega Arms. Therefore, to make a second Handle, repeat the actions covered Step 10. Then attempt to insert this Second Handle into your first Omega Arm. It will likely not be a perfect fit. Therefore, use a PIPE WRENCH, and tighten the center Nipple (the 10” long ¾’ Nipple), until the 2nd Handle fits in your 1st omega Arms as easily as the 1st handle fits.

Step 18: Repeat Steps above and make a second IDENTICAL Omega Arm.

You can also (to an extent) use your 1st Omega arm as a template for the 2nd (which is what I did) – whereby you ensure they are cut IDENTICAL IN LENGTH, and then clamp them together (with both ends being flush with one another) and then use a speed square to mark the 1) widthwise center, 2) Three “45LBS Plate Circles”,  and 3) the Rack’s Hole positions). You will still have to separately mark and measure the lengthwise center line.

When checking how easily the Handles fit in all of the Omega Arms’ holes, you may need to bore out (just a little bit) any holes (in the 1st and 2nd Omega Arms) where inserting/removing the handles is too difficult.

Step 19: Sanding.

 If did very light sanding. Just gave it a once over and all 4 sides of each 4x4.

Step 20: Add 3 ¾” Floor Flanges.

Each one will be centered on the 3 “45 LBS Plate Circles” we made in Step 6.

Orient each floor flange so that the 4 holes in the top of the flanges are furthest AWAY from the edge of the 4x4. ALSO - Be sure that you Pre-Drill (pilot holes) before adding screws. You do not want to come this far just to have the wood split on you.

I used 3” long Deck Screws. However, you could get away with any type of  2 ½” to 3” Long Construction screws of any kind. Just make the head of the screw is large enough to properly secure the flange to the 4x4.

There is no need to buy Galvanized floor flanges. Save yourself some money here and buy only Black Iron ¾” Floor flanges. You will be painting it later.

Also – in order to protect your weights from getting scratched up from the metal to metal contact on the floor flange – consider covering the surface of the floor flange with some type of covering (i.e., a cut a hole in a plastic lid, a piece of  trimmed shelf liner, or even a little bit of duct tape).

Step 21: Assemble Olympic Plate Adapters.

This is completely optional. However, if you are going to use Olympic Plates – I think it is a good idea.

It will not only reduce noise but will also protect your weights and the Omega Arms from getting unnecessarily beat up when conducting certain exercises.

The First step is to cut a length of 1 ½” Schedule 40 PVC. The length will be determined by the length of your ¾”  nipple connected to the floor flange. You will likely make multiple of these a version for each nipple length that you incorporate into your Omega Arms usage.

Then take a 1” Schedule 40 PVC Cap and cut the tip off. Cut right at the VERY end of the cap – leaving just a little bit of the curvature of the end of the cap intact. This will ensure that the interior of the Olympic Plate Adapter fits snuggly onto the ¾” Nipple.

Then Insert the 1” Cap (curved side First) into the 1 ½” Schedule 40 PVC. Pound it in.

Lastly, repeat for the OTHER end, taking another 1” PVC cap, snipping of the end, and pounding it into the other end of the  1 ½” piece of PVC.

After Inserting the Olympic Plate Adapter onto the ¾” Nipple, take a ¾” Nipple cap – and screw it onto the nipple. This will lock the Adapter onto the nipple.

Step 22: Add ¾” Floor Flanges to ONE END of each Arm.

Same process step 20, namely rotate the floor flanges so that the 4 holes in the top of the flanges are furthest AWAY from the edge of the 4x4. Also – again – be sure top pre-drill to prevent the wood from splitting.

Step 23: Add TWO ¾” Floor Flanges to the Bottom Side of each Omega Arm.

After more usage of the Omega Arms – I identified the need for this safety enhancement for MANY of the exercises being performed. This will enable you to add a “Stopper Arm” to the bottom of the Omega Arm. The length of nipple that gets added here is dependent upon the exercise.

That being said, to determine ethe placement of these floor flanges, I marked the interior edge of the Top side’s 1st Floor Flange, and then marked the exterior edge of the 2nd hole inward – and then measure and marked between these two edges. It is here that I centered my floor flange on the “bottom side” of the Omega Arm. I repeated the process for the other end of the Omega Arm – and of course made Both Omega Arms identical in the placement of these floor flanges.

I KNOW THIS PART SOUNDS CONFUSING – so watch the video to clear up any confusion.

OMEGA BRACKETS:

BRACKET DESIGN NOTE: My 2”x2” Rack has 1 1/16” diameter holes that are spaced 2” apart, and only has frontal/rear holes for each “upright.” (i.e., my rack does not have holes on all 4 sides). If you have holes on all 4 sides that are large enough, you will not necessarily need to make these brackets.

If your rack is different than mine, you may have to change the design of these brackets to accommodate your own unique needs. Also - ¾” Nipples will not fit into my rack’s holes. This is why I am using ½” Nipples the hardware for my brackets.

Lastly, the brackets are not necessarily REQUIRED for all exercises. In some cases you can get away with just placing the 60” nipple directly in your J-hooks. However, I will leave it to you to determine what you are comfortable with safety-wise.

Step 1: Cut a 7” long piece of 4x4.

If you look closely at the video it appears as though I have a little notch cut out of my 4x4 at the beginning. Ignore this. To be honest – I was simply using a scrap piece I had laying around to film to reenactment of the construction of the bracket.

Step 2: Clamp the 7” piece of 4x4 to your bracket – so that it is centered on 3 holes of your rack. Then trace the 1st and 3rd (not the middle) hole’s positions onto the bracket.

Step 3: Drill Both “Frontal” holes (where you marked in Step 2). Since I am going to use ½” Nipples to secure the 4x4 brackets to my rack – I am going to use a 7/8” Spade bit for this, which offers a perfect fit for ½” nipples.

Step 4: Secure the brackets to your rack with 6” long ½” Nipples and ½” Caps/Tee Connectors.

Ensure that enough of the nipple’s threading is exposed to eb able to safely secure the bracket to the rack.

If not enough threading is exposed, trim the block  (I cut off about an 1/8”), and then reverify by re-attempting to sure the bracket to your rack.

Step 5: Determine the Position of “Side Holes” and Drill

So – this step is a geometry step. I wanted the 1 1/8” Hole to be offset – so that I can control the TILT/PITCH of the Omega Arms as they hang down. This way I can position the bracket with the 1 1/8” hole in the Upper Right, Upper Left, Lower Right or Lower Left quadrant by simply rotating the bracket to the desired position before I secure it to my rack.

 Do not Just drill a hole in the center of the bracket.

The other hole I made was a 7/8” hole. Why? Well  - You never know what other things may require a bracket with a 60” Long ½” Nipple for a future project. SO why not?

Step 6: Repeat these steps and use the First bracket as a template for a second IDENTCIAL bracket (same length, width, hole positions).

Once you try this for yourself – be sure to let me know how well it worked for you! Happy Lifting!

SHOUT IT OUT: If you Build this project and want to brag about it, please use the #DesignBuildLift hashtag so that I can feature your amazing creation on my social media to help inspire others!