Lever Curl Bar

Written By PJ

Introduction:

When you curl a barbell or a dumbbell there is little to no resistance at the top of the rep. The reason being - the weight is directly in your hands, Gravity is pressing the weight down, where your bones are doing most of the work. However, with the lever curl bar, the weight is not in your hands – the weight is positioned in front of you which provides resistance throughout the rep – including- the top of the rep. This will result in greater time under tension – yielding greater gains. I absolutely love my DIY lever Curl bar – and so will you!

Commercial Options:  

I didn’t know about lever curl bars until recently when I saw a post on Instagram from Gluck’s Gym.

After seeing this product, so I did a bit of research and I found a few commercial offerings.

If you are interested in a Plate Loaded Lever Curl Bar but you are too fancy to make one – consider purchasing one of the following commercially-available options:

All three of these options look awesome to me! Alternatively, if you are interested in a Cable Pulley system-based option, then consider the Atlas Bar. With the Atlas bar, the weight is not in front of you like the plate loaded options above, but the padding still presses against your arms as you curl – so technically you are still using a “lever” to curl. This product also looks awesome in my opinion.

DIY Tutorial:

Step 1: Connect two 10” Long ¾” Nipples to the lateral holes of  3/4” Tee Connector

You only need to hand tighten these 10” Nipples. No pipe wrench. No Threadlocker.

Note: All the hardware mentioned (e.g., Nipples, Tee Connectors, Nipple Caps) is ¾” hardware. If you deviate and use ½”, 1” etc. hardware, you will get different results and have to adapt the other components of this design to accommodate your alternate hardware choice.

Step 2: Connect a 5” long Nipple to the Tee Connector’s remaining Hole

Add threadlocker to the remaining hole (female end) of the top of the Tee Connector. I like adding threadlocker to the female end (rather than the male end of the nipple), because if you add to the male end of the nipple, you will likely apply it to threading that will not end up being inside of the female end once completely tightened – leading to wasted threadlocker/ unnecessary mess / less attractive end result.

I chose a 5” long Nipple here because based upon the videos I watched of people using commercially-available Lever Curl Bars, it appeared that the Pads hit them about 3.5” down from the wrist. I originally used 6” nipples for this step (before filming) but found that that pads hit a little lower than what I was seeing in the videos. Therefore, I switched to a 5” long nipple. Of course, you should use whatever length of nipple for this step that you think works best for you. Some people may need 6” nipple here. Some may need 4” nipple here. However, I think a 5” long  nipple should work for almost everyone.

Note: In Step 10 we will tighten this 5” long nipple with the pipe wrench. Think of it this way – all nipples/connectors along the vertical axis of the Lever Curl Bar will need threadlocker and to be as tight as possible. For nipples/caps along the horizontal axis, do not use threadlocker – and there is no need to use a pipe wrench. You may want to swap these horizontal parts out one day for different lengths, so if you overtighten/use threadlocker – you may be painting yourself into a corner unnecessarily. More on this down in step 10.

Step 3: Connect a ¾” Cross to the end of the 5” long Nipple

Apply threadlocker to the Cross before putting it on the 5” long Nipple.

Threadlocker can be purchased here: https://amzn.to/3EOjaSj

Step 4: Connect 10” Long ¾” Nipples to the lateral holes of  3/4” Cross

No threadlocker required on these 10” long Nipples.

Step 5: Connect a ¾” Nipple “Close” to the remaining hole of  3/4” Cross

A “Close” is all threads (all male) and is used to connect two female ends.

Apply threadlocker to the remaining hole of the Cross before adding the “Close.”

I hand tightened mine as much as possible with the assistance of Easy Liner Select Grip Shelf Liner. This really helped. You can buy it here:

Step 6: Connect a ¾” 90 Degree Elbow to the” Close”

Apply threadlocker to the Elbow before putting it on the “Close.” Don’t worry about tightening the Elbow too much here. We will do that in the very next step (Step 7).

Step 7: Connect 12” Long ¾” Nipple to the  90 Degree Elbow

Apply threadlocker to the remaining hole of the Elbow before adding the 12” long nipple, and hand tighten the nipple.

I know someone who owns the XII:XI Lever Curl bar – and they measured the length of the “apex” of that product down to the end of the product (where weights are added) for me. This 12” nipple makes them almost exactly the same length. That being said, if you want to go shorter or longer – knock yourself out, but note that doing so with offer a different resistance curve than the one I made.

Once added, I used the 12” Long nipple to help turn the elbow three full revolutions.

Ultimately, (down in Step 10) you will need to use your pipe wrench to tighten this 12” nipple as well).

Step 8: Add a Tee Connector to the end of the 12” Long Nipple

Apply threadlocker to the center hole of the Tee Connector before adding it onto the 12” long nipple, and hand tighten.

Step 9: Connect two 6” Long ¾” Nipples to the lateral holes of the Tee Connector.

No threadlocker required here. Hand tighten these only.

Now you might look at some of the commercial options and see that their plate loading “bars” might be longer than these. However, I loaded these up with 100 LBS of 10 LB 1” Plates (5 per side) and still hand room for 1” Spring clamps. I also loaded them with two 25 LBS 2” Plates per side – and still had room for olympic barbell collars. FURTHER, if you think you can curl this much weight – you will likely be humbled very quickly. You will not be able to curl as much weight as you think! Curling with a lever curl bar is much harder than curling with a barbell or dumbbells. In fact, you should expect to curl about half of what you ordinarily curl. Also – this exercise is best implemented with higher reps, lower weight (as opposed to heavier weight, lower reps). Therefore, I think that these two 6” nipples are sufficient for most people. That being said of you want to go longer and use 8” nipples or even 10” nipples here – go for it! Just make sure that you cut your Olympic plate adapters (See Step 13B) to accommodate whatever nipple length you choose for this step.

Step 10: Tighten everything

I did not include footage of this (because it was long and boring)…but this will take some time (up to 10 minutes to get it right). Once you turn something it will turn other parts you did not intend to turn. It was a workout unto itself. I was sweating by the end of it.

Bottom line – make everything as tight as possible. Ensure that the lateral bars are parallel before letting the threadlocker cure for 24 hours. The best way to ensure that these are parallel is to set it on the ground so that the lateral nipples (where the pads, handles, and plates go) are all touching the ground.

I also used my pipe wrench to tighten the 5” long nipple and the 12” long nipple. After doing this, check the nipple to see if the pipe wrench made SHARP scratches on the surface of the nipple. If there are sharp scratches, take a metal file and file these down so that you do not cut yourself on these later on.

You can buy a pipe wrench like the one I used here:

Step 11: Add Padding (1” Washers, Pool Noodle and Nipple Caps)

Cut 2 lengths pool noodle (each about 9.5” LONG).

The pool noodle that I am used is 2.5” thick (NOT 2.75” like I stated in the video) and it has a 1” hole in the center which is perfect for this job. (Link down in the description below).

Optionally you can add 1” Washers (2” Outer Diameter) to the ends of the pool noodle which will help reduce wear and tear on the ends of the padding as well as make it look a little nicer. Once done add ¾” Nipple Caps to the ends.

You can buy the supplies here:

Step 12: Add Handles

Cut 2 lengths of 1.25” Schedule 40 PVC (each about 9.25” LONG) and to the set of interior 10” long Nipples and then add ¾” Nipple caps. I cut the PVC using my Miter Saw, but you can use any means of cutting the PVC – just be sure to cut as straight as possible.

These will act as rotating handles, as well as thicken the grip. That being said, don’t expect significant rotation. While the rotation is very subtle, it does provide an additional level of comfort (as opposed using the bare ¾” nipple as the handle).

Step 13A: Load 1” Plates

 If you are using 1” Plates – you are done! Just be sure that you let the threadlocker cure for 24 hours before using the Lever Curl Bar.

To secure the plates, I used 1” Spring Clamps, which can be purchased here:

Bear in mind that not all1” plates will fit on 3/4” Nipples. I can covered this before in prior videos (See Plate Pin Video). Generally speaking , cheaper plates usually fit better - and more expensive plates do not.

Step 13B: Load Olympic Plates

If you are using Olympic Plates – we need to make Olympic Plate Adapters. To make these do the following:

  • Cut two pieces of 1.5” Schedule 40 PVC (about 5.25” LONG ) if you are using 6” long Nipples to load plates.

  • Next we need to cut the tops off of FOUR 1” Schedule 40 PVC Caps

    • I Barely cut off the tip. The reason why is because the rounded edge is what allows for these to fit inside the 1.5” PVC. If you cut off too much they will not fit inside the 1.5” PVC. To cut the tips off, I connected 1” PVC to the caps to hold them while I chopped off the tips using my miter saw (but you can definitely use other methods as well).

  • Apply PVC cement to the interior of the 1.5” PVC, and then pound the 1” caps into the 1.5” PVC (one 1” cap into each end of the 1.5” PVC). Allow the PVC Cement to dry.

  • Slide a 1” Washer (2.5” Outer Diameter) onto each of the 6” long nipples, then slide on the Olympic Plate Adapters, then add a Nipple caps to each end.

I have already covered this in a prior video – but it is important to note that not all barbell collars will fit on 1.5” PVC.

  • Option 1: “Spring Barbell Collars” are way too big – not going to work! Don’t use these!

  • Option 2: The Plastic Amazon Quick Release Collars will not work – but you can get them to work by shimming them up. There are many ways to do this. Here are a few ideas:

    • Add Duct Tape to the interior of the collars

    • Add a strip of Rubber Gasket between the PVC and the interior of the collars

    • Add the aforementioned Easy Liner “Select Grip” Shelf Liner between the PVC and the interior of the collars

    • Add a “Zip Strip” to the collars

    • (MY FAVORITE HACK) Place a Soft Loop Tiedown Strap through the collar before putting it on the PVC. If still loose, wrap it twice through the collar. This looks “raggedy” – but it will work and I like the “impermanence” of it.

    • Supplies can be purchased here:

  • Option 3: Best option: Get All-Metal Barbell Clamps that you can “over tighten”

    • I don’t know the name brand of the ones that I used in the video, but these options appear to be the same thing:

Step 13C: Hook up to Cable Pulley System

Now if you aren’t using Plates at all and will be connecting to a cable pulley system – there are MANY ways to connect…here are SOME options to consider:

  • Soft Loop Tiedown Strap

    • Feed a Soft Loop Tiedown strap through a carabiner. Take the two loops of the Soft Loop Tie Down Strap and put one loop over each end of the 6” long Nipple. Ideally, place the straps over the Tee Connector (so that the Olympic Plate Adapter 1” Washers keep the Straps from sliding off). Connect a Carabiner to your Cable Pulley system and exercise.

  • Welded Rings

    • Add 2 welded rings to the 6” nipples and connect a carabiner to the welded rings…now hook up and exercise. Connect Carabiner to Cable Pulley system and exercise.

    • Be sure that the welded rings are large enough to accommodate your design (i.e., you wil need larger ones if you are using Olympic Plate Adapters).

  • Atlas Bar “Knock Off”:

    • Instead of adding 12” long Nipple to the “Cross,” Add a Nipple Cap with a hole drilled through it. Then add an Eyebolt through the hole (and threadlocker on the eyebolt’s nut) (Watch my DIY Plate PIN Video learn how to do this). Add a carabiner to the eyebolt. Connect Carabiner to Cable Pulley system and exercise.

Supplies can be purchased Here:

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Plastic Barbell Collar Quick Release Hacks:

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Once you try this for yourself - be sure to let me know how it worked for you! Happy Lifting!

SHOUT IT OUT: If you Build this project and want to brag about it, please use the #DesignBuildLift hashtag so that I can feature your amazing creation on my social media to help inspire others!

PJ
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