DIY Fitness Club

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Belt Squat Platform

PJ

Introduction

I was originally planning a more complicated design (i.e., retractable loading tray). However, the designs I came up with were just too complicated, and would take too long to set up.

Therefore, I went back to the drawing board – and ended up just making a VERY simple, yet very effective design – which can be assembled/disassembled in seconds.

I am loving this very simple Belt Squat Platform design!!!

For all you people who Belt Squat by standing on cinder blocks, plyometric boxes, or even lifting blocks – I think that this design is superior. For all you “ride or die” cinder block fans – hey that’s cool if it works for you. However, since cinder blocks are only 8” Tall, us taller guys cannot really use them. We need something taller in order to get full squat depth.

Here are some of the reasons why my design is superior:

  1. EASY TO MAKE. This design is easier/faster to make than other related DIY projects such as a Plyo Boxes.

  2. EASY STORAGE. Since all the pieces are flat they are easier to store and can be easily hung on the wall.

  3. ADJUSTABLE HEIGHT. Since it is rack mounted - it inherently has adjustable height. Obviously having adjustable height is a huge benefit. You can control the depth that you wish to Belt Squat – and adjust the height of the platform accordingly.

  4. MORE USES. This is more versatile because it has many other uses…such as a height-adjustable utility seat among OTHER uses (Which I will showcase for you in future videos). Further, as I point out in the video, you can drill holes in the ends (aligned your rack’s holes) and then attach each unit to the rack’s uprights for even more uses.

  5. SAFER. Best of all, this design incorporates a loading and unloading “tray” making it easier/safer to load/unload. If you are standing on cinder blocks or wooden blocks, you will have to step on/on off the blocks with the load attached which is going to lead to an injury sooner or later.

Width of your Stance

The width of your rack (mine is 26” wide), and the height of your body (I am 6 Feet tall) may necessitate some modifications to my design so that you have a natural-feeling stance.

To make the gap between the two “beams” narrower (make sure you leave enough room for the plates to pass through) – you could of course just make the two “beams” wider by adding an extra 2x4 to the design. To make the gap between the two “beams” wider – you could use 2x3 Lumber (instead of 2x4) – but then you will have a diminished weight capacity.

As I mentioned in the video, my Power Rack has a width of 26” – and therefore delivers a 19” Gap. Since 45 LBS Plates are 17.5” wide, there is enough space for 45 LBS plates. That being said…there is not a TON of clearance.

However, I would argue that whether you are using my DIY Design, Cinder blocks, Plyo boxes, or any other similar platform…in my opinion (and I have heard others say this online, too ) — standing with an exaggerated stance to make room for 45 LBS plates just feels weird and unnatural to me.

Therefore,  all things being equal - I actually prefer using 35 LBS plates (and under) for this exercise because they are much easier to maneuver and allows for a more natural feeling stance.

DIY Belt

As I mentioned in the Video – I am using my DIY Belt Squat Belt. If you would like to make one – consult this video:

Lumber Dimensions

For all my beginners, I want to point out that, 2x4 Lumber is actually 1.5” thick, and 3.5” wide. Further, 2x2 Lumber is actually 1.5” thick, and 1.5” wide.

Just wanted to mention this in case your math doesn’t seem to be adding up.

DIY Tutorial

Step 1: Measure Power Rack

I measured the distance between the interior edges of my Power Rack’s front uprights. For me this distance was 44.5”

Step 2: Cut Six Pieces of 2x4 Lumber

4 of the 6 pieces will be the exact length that you measured in step 1 (for me 44.5”). 2 of the 6 2x4s will be 5.5”longer than the other boards (so for me 44.5” + 5.5” = 50”).

To cut I used my Compound Miter Saw. However you can use ANY saw – from a “Circular Saw” to a Hand Saw.

Step 3: Measure and Mark the Center Line of Each 2x4

Doing this will help you center the Short Boards on the Long Board in Step 4 and Step 5.

Step 4: Affix a Short Board to a Long Board

With the Long Board (for me again – that is the 50” long 2x4), on the bottom, center the Short board on top of the long board. Glue and screw the boards together, by putting the screws through the short board and into the long board.

Double check (and triple check) that the Short board is centered BEFORE adding the Glue and Screws!

In the video – I had already pre-drilled before adding the screws – which is why it looked so easy for me to get symmetry with my screw positions. I took the time to measure exactly where I wanted all the screws beforehand, and then I drilled those holes BEFORE adding the glue and screws. Pre-drilling also prevents wood from splitting. It is always a good idea to pre-drill for projects like this!

I used 2.5” Construction Screws to affix the two 2x4s together.

Step 5: Affix Last Board

You will now add another short board to the unit. Doing so will not only strength the unit – but it will also widen the platform by another 1.5.”

With the Unit upside down (i.e., the short board is on top – just like in the previous step), Glue and screw this board to the side of the unit.

This 2x4 board will “stick up” above the edge by 0.5” – That is okay. However, ENSURE IT IS FLUSH with the “TOP” edge (the surface that you will stand on) - before gluing and screwing.

As I mentioned in the video, I wanted mine to be flush on both the top AND bottom so that I can have both units lay flat on the ground and make them easier to stack (for storage purposes). Therefore, I ran this 2x4 board through my table saw and cut off 0.5” – making it flush on the top and bottom.

Again - I had already pre-drilled before adding the screws – which is why it looked so easy for me in the video.

I used 3” Construction Screws to affix this last 2x4 to the “unit.”

Now - Repeat these steps 4 and 5 to make your second “beam” with the remaining three pieces of 2x4 lumber.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not position the screws so that they go IN BETWEEN the two stacked 2x4s. The screws need to be positioned so that they INSIDE EACH 2x4. In the video I did not follow this advice, but quickly realized my mistake and fixed it “off camera.”

Step 6: Measure Length for “Loading Tray”

With both “beams” securely laid on your Power Rack’s Safety bars, measure from the rear edge of the rear “beam” to the front edge of the front “Beam.” Whatever number you come up with (for me it was 29”) ADD 3”.

Step 7: Cut Three Pieces of 2x4

Cut the 2x4 to the exact length you came up with in Step 6 (For me 29 + 3 = 32”). These three 2x4s should result in a 1.5” overhand on both sides.

Step 8: Cut FOUR pieces of 10.5” long pieces of 2x2 Lumber

The combined width of the three 2x4s should measure at 10.5” – this is why we want our four pieces of 2x2 to be 10.5” long.

Step 9: Affix 2x2s to 2x4s to make “Loading Tray”

As I demonstrate in the video – I used the two “beams” to ensure that the “end” pieces of 2x2 were flush with the ends of the 2x4s. I also used the “beams” to determine the spacing of the two interior pieces of 2x2. I probably made mine a little too snug – because after I painted (and the surface because tacky), it became a little too snug. SO – make sure yours is snug – but not too snug. Perhaps put a couple of nickels (or other small coins) in between the “beams” and the two Interior pieces of 2x2 to act as a spacer.

I used 2.5” Construction Screws to affix the 2x2s to the 2x4s.As you can see I love SPAX Construction screws and I use them all the time.

Step 10: Sand and then Paint/Stain

Before I sanded I got a nasty splinter. Be sure you do a good job of sanding to prevent splinters.

I painted mine – but I know that this paint job is going to take a beating. You are actually better off staining the wood (rather than painting) – which will give it a more durable finish.

Step 11: Add Anti-Slip tape

I used 4” wide Anti-Slip tape. This product is fantastic, and easy to use. Please do not skip this step. If you skip it – it will increase the likelihood of you getting injured!

That’s it! You are now done! Now – go exercise!

SHOPPING LIST

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💪Gym Gear:

  • TDS Power Rack https://amzn.to/3dUvUed

  • Spud Inc LARGE Belt Squat Belt: https://amzn.to/3IoTYDM

  • Spud Inc MEDIUM Belt Squat Belt: https://amzn.to/3yqMmwe

  • Loading Pin: https://amzn.to/3xIFvh8

LUMBER

  • 2x4 Lumber: https://amzn.to/3iTa1Om

  • 2x2 Lumber:

POWER TOOLS:

🪚TOOLS:

🔩FASTENERS:

👽MISCELLANEOUS:

Once you try this for yourself - be sure to let me know how it worked for you! Happy Lifting!

SHOUT IT OUT: If you Build this project and want to brag about it, please use the #DesignBuildLift hashtag so that I can feature your amazing creation on my social media to help inspire others!