This is a video for the construction of DIY Magnetic Plate Blocks using VERY STRONG MAGNETS (Neodymium Magnets – AKA Rare Earth)!

This will make doing drops sets very easy since it makes it so easy to add/remove 5, 10 or 20 pounds per dumbbell! Further, you will save a TON of money by not having to buy so many different weight denominations. Your $60 investment could save you well over $1000!!!

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The specific product I used was the Amazon Product: “Super Power Neodymium Cup Magnets with 95 LBS Pull Capacity Each, 1.26 inch” (CLICK LINK ABOVE).

Despite what the ad says, these magnets will NOT hold 95 LBs each. You will all 24 magnets for two dumbbells. Therefore, my recommendation: Get 3 Packs of 10. This will allow you to use 3 blocks on each end of two dumbbells, using 24 of 30 magnets, and having 6 extra magnets in case any break.

DESIGN IDEA GENESIS

I have seen other YouTube videos that “JB Weld” magnets directly to 2.5 LB  plates, where  those “magnet plates” are solely then dedicated to being a tool to add 5LBs to a Dumbbell. However, I was not satisfied with only being able to increment a Dumbbell by 5 LBS.

I wanted to be able to increment the weight by 5, 10, or 20 LBS. However, using this same design principle,  would have to dedicate 4 x 10LBS, 4 x 5 LBS, and 4 x 2.5 LBS plates. That is a lot of plates to solely dedicate to this endeavor. Therefore, this approach was unappealing to me.

Further, I wanted the design to accommodate all three types of dumbbells that I own (Fixed weight, Threaded, and Mullet). After a few failed prototype designs, I discovered that the simplest design ( i.e., the Block) was also the most convenient/easiest to construct and provided the most versatility.

The block design provided compatibility with all three of my dumbbell types and with all of my different types of plates (i.e., standard flat plates vs. standard plates with a grooves cut into them, Olympic sized plates, etc.).

THICKNESS OF BLOCKS

As you can see in the video, the primary driver that determined my block “height” of 1 1/16” was the length of the screws in the magnets. However, you may be able to create “shorter” blocks if you used shorter screws (OR no screws at all) – and rely on epoxy glue to secure the magnets to the block. If you try this, be sure to let me know how thin you got yours!

USING A HAND DRILL INSTEAD OF A DRILL PRESS

I used a drill press with my Forstner bit (CLICK AMAZON LINK ABOVE). However, there are tons of YouTube videos out there that provide tips and tricks for how to drill straight uniform depths with a Forstner bit and a Hand drill. Therefore, do not let the fact that you do not hand a drill press prevent you form accomplishing this project. YOU CAN DO IT!

DUCT TAPE – NOT OPTIONAL:

Full disclosure I found out near the end of filming the video that the Duct Tape should not be considered OPTIONAL (as I originally planned on presenting the matter). The fact is the Duct Tape is absolutely crucial for 2 reasons:

1. The magnets scratched the hell out of my weights. The Duct Tape wrap solves this problem obviously. By providing a literal layer of protection.

2.  The direct contact between the magnet and the metal plate provided a connection that was so strong I could “feel” the magnets slowly being ripped out of the wood block each time I removed the plates. Therefore, I suspect that it would have only been a short amount of time before the magnets were ripped right out of the blocks. The Duct tape weakens the connection to an appropriate level,, while still providing a connection strong enough to safely hold the plates on.

If you Build this project and want to brag about it, please use the #DesignBuildLift hashtag so that I can feature your amazing creation on my social media to help inspire others!